CHAPTER I. Author's first arrival in California — Engages in local trade and commerce with Sitka and the Hawaiian Islands — Appearance of Sitka — Government Officers — Social Amenities — At Monterey— Promment Foreign Residents — Author's Second Visit to the Coast — An English Brig Discovered — A Race between the Brig and " Volunteer " — The latter Victorious — In Port a " Good Time " ensues between the officers of the Respective Vessels — List of Trading Vessels — Forts, Military Officers and other Residents of the Bay Shores — Sea Otter plenty in San Francisco Bay— Trade Ventures in Different Directions

CHAPTER II. The San Francisco Mission — The Padres as Instructors— Their Possessions in Live Stock and Natural Productions— Hostile Indians Captured, Civil- ized and Christianized — Goods sold to the Padres, for Hides, Tallow, Peltries and Money — Other Missions — San Francisco in 1833— Marriage of Thomas O Larkin on board the "Volunteer," at Santa Barbara — P'es- tivities that followed — The "Volunteer" trades to Honolulu — The Author Sails on Board to that City

CHAPTER III. The Author Returns May 1838, on the "Don Quixote "—A Protracted Battle without Human Bloodshed — At Monterey on the " Don Quixote " — Further Enumeration of Trading Vessels — The Voyage to Sacramento — The Author's Schooner the Flag Ship — Captain Sutter on Board— He unfolds to the Author his Future Plans— The Nativity of Captain Sutter— A Plague of Mosquitos — Captain Sutter Landed — A Salute which Astonishes the Indians and Wild Beasts— The Salute Answered with Cheers— Return Voyage— Provisions Scarce — Unexpected Food Supply Received

CHAPTER IV. More names of Residents around the Bay of San Francisco

CHAPTER V. Station of the Russian Fur Company, and its Officers— The Force engaged Hunting Sea Otters— Value of the Otter Skins and where they were Sold— Captain Sutter Purchases the Russian Buildings and Outhts— A Fourth of July Celebration in 1839— Parties in Attendance— Vessel Arrivals in 1839

CHAPTER VI. Thousands of Elk on Mare Island — Elk captured with the Lariat by the Rancheros— Dangers of the Sport — Ranchos with Large Herds of Live Stock — Ranches around the Bay in 1838 — Wealth of Bay Residents in Land and Live Stock — Indians as Farmers and Vaqueros — Indian Steam Baths

CHAPTER VII. How the Missions were supported- — Cattle Slaughtered mainly for their Hides and Tallow — The Portions Preserved for Food — Milch Cows in no Demand — The use of Florses — The Gangs into which they were Divided, and their Habits while running at large — Wild Florses in San Joaquin Valley — Sport had by the Young Men in their Capture with the Lasso

CHAPTER VIII. The Cattle tamed by frequent Rodeos — Manner of Collecting the Cattle together — Neighboring Rancheros attend the Rodeos to look after their own Brands — The Pursuit of Break-away cattle — The Novel Method of Reducing them to Obedience — A Rodeo Described — Beef the Chief Food of Californians, which accounts for their Health and Longevity

CHAPTER IX. Horse Breeding — Instinct of Attachment between the Equine Sexes — Their Uneasiness at Separation — -Grain and Bean Threshing by Mares— A Primitive Method

CHAPTER X. How Taxes were Imposed foi* the Support of the Department — Governor Alvarado's Order for the Arrest of Americans — The Arrests that were made — Verba Buena placed under Martial Law by General Vallejo — Disposition of the Arrested Parties — News of the Arrests sent by Consul Larkin to Wash- ington — Action of the United States Government — The Principal Rancheros Anticipate the Annexation of California to the United States — The Ques- tion only one of Time — Their Reasons for not Earnestly Opposing the Measure

CHAPTER XI. Arrest and Release of Nathan Spear — The Author is one of the Arrested — While a Prisoner attends an Entertainment — An Attractive Hostess — Further action of the Government of the United States concerning the Arrests — A General Delivery of Prisoners — An Explanation and Disclaimer — The Latter probably Insincere

CHAPTER XII. Population of the Department in 1838-'39, and its Composition — A Prominent Frenchman Arrives — His Nervous Impatience causes him to take an Impromptu Cold Bath — Flis Mission Suspected of being one of Observation for the French Government — He makes a Round of Visits — Captain Sutter is Pleased with him — Mutual Respect — His Opinion of the Country' and its Destiny

CHAPTER XIII. The Priests and the Missions — The Work of Converting Indians — Missions under rule of the Mexican Republic— Culture and Attainments of the Priests — Father Gonzales — Horses Supplied Gratuitously to the Traders by the Rancheros and Padres — The Supercargo sometimes owned his own Horses — Manner of Trading with Incoming Vessels — Comforts of the Adobe Dwelling — Family Traveling Equipages— Houses and House-keeping — A Word of Praise for Native California Ladies — Educational Facilities Scarce — Sites Selected for Dwellings

CHAPTER XIV. Indian Treachery — Fighting the Indians — An Indian Arrow Wound ulti- mately causes the Death of Comandante Juan Padro Mesa — The Californians Early Risers — Daily Customs of the Rancheros — Dress of the Leisure Season — Customs of the Native Californian when Mounted — Trappings of his Horse — Gallantry in the Saddle — Habits of the Household — Gray-headed Persons Scarce — A Contented People — Class Distinctions — Courtesy a Common Thing — Home Entertainments — The Dancing Endurance of the Native California Women — The Author takes a Whirl in the Waltz — Sur- prising Feats of Florsemanship — Upsetting a Bull — Concerning the Double Marriage of Don Jose Martinez — He proves a True Philanthrophist — Dies, and has an Immense Funeral

CHAPTER XV. Horse Racing as an Amusement — Bull Fighting — Lassoeing Bears by the Wholesale — A Night of Horror to the Author — Don Vicente exhibits his skill in Throwing Cattle — Gambling not a Vice with the Native Californians — Their Promptitude in Business Transactions^Pride Supported their Honesty

CHAPTER XVI. Rank of the Mexican Civil Officers and their Powers — Military Officers — Their Duties — -The Junta Departmental — Land Grants, Why and How Bestowed — Officers appointed for San Francisco — Flow Justice was Admin- istered — The Governor's Powers — The Alcaldes were Capable Officers — Their Insignia of Office — Governor Alvarado — Fle is held in Esteem by the Foreign Residents — General Castro as a Military Man — General Vallejo — His Courtesy to Visitors and Strangers — A Sleep on a Cold Night without Blankets — • General Vallejo skilled as a Horseman, and expert with the Lasso — Allu- sion to Don Pablo de la Guerra, Don Jose Antonio Carillo, Mr Alfred Robinson and Don Manuel Jimeno — Dona Augusta Jimeno, a High-spirited and Patriotic Lady — Doila Ramona Wilson, a Lady of great Hospitality

CHAPTER XVII. A Post erected at Yerba Buena in 1841 by the Hudson's Bay Company — Rae occupies a Portion of the Building — Rae a Genial Man — A I'articular Game of Cards — Favorite Games of the People — The Hudson's Bay Store as a Place of Resort — A Wrestling Contest — Rae Vanquished — Rae held in much Respect — Bob Ridley and his Doings — Brandy gets him in the End — Rae proves an Unfaithful Husband — Ends his Life by Suicide — A new Agent at the Post, who closes out the Business to Melius & Howard

CHAPTER XVIII. Commodore Wilkes and Fleet visit the Pacific Coast Waters in 1841 — A Survey of the Sacramento River is made— Captain Sutter Visited — He Enter- tains the Surveyors Bounteously — Commodore Wilkes as Gentleman and Officer — General Vallejo visits Wilkes — Pie receives a Salute — The Commodore has other Distinguished Visitors — The Commodore gives Interesting Descriptions of his Pacific Explorations — Interchange of Visits between the Officers of the Fleet and of Fort Ross — Tiie Fleet Secures its Supplies from Spear, which enables the Author to become Intimate with its Officers— A Jolly Set — Com- modore Wilkes is too Busy to Participate in the Current Festivities — Spear and the Commodore become Intimate — Spear was the First Merchant in Verba Buena — He is I'rofuse in his Praises of the Country's Resources and Climatic Advantages to his Eastern Correspondent — He Declines to become a Mexican Citizen— Visit of British War Ships to the Bay — A Design Suspected of Prompting the Visit — Movements that are watched by Commodore Wilkes

CHAPTER XIX. Captain Eliab Grimes — The Mexican Government has no Revenue Cutters to prevent Otter Hunting — Captain Bancroft presumes too much upon the for- bearance of his Alaskan Hunters — Reprimands them Severely and Loses his Life — The Hunters are Pacified — The Mate takes the Vessel to Alaska — Discharges the Hunters and proceeds to Plonolulu — A British ship Arrives in San Francisco Bay on a vSurveying Expedition — The result of the Captain's Labors is kept Secret — The Object Apparent — Captain Wm A Leidesdorff comes to California in 1841, in the Schooner " Juliann " — The Author becomes Supercargo of the "Don Quixote," Captain John Paty — Sails to Flonolulu with a Vessel Load of Hides — That City a Central Mart for the Pacific Ocean Trade

CHAPTER XX. The " Don Quixote" returns to San Francisco, and becomes a Coast Trader — A Misunderstanding with the Customs Officers — Smuggling Operations Dis- covered but not Reported — ^Escape from the Surveillance of the Sub-Prefect — A Profitable Night's Work — Explanation why the Merchants at one time Violated the Mexican Revenue Laws — Clever Tricks to avoid tlie Customs Taxes — The First Steam Saw Mill — It is Located in the Bodego Lumber Region — A New Firm Established at San Diego — The Author leaves the " Don Quixote," and becomes an Agent of the Firm at Verba Buena — Business Lively

CHAPTER XXI. The American Occupation of Monterey, in 1842, by Commodore Jones — A Graphic Description of the Capture — A Mistake — Relinquishment of the City — The Commodore's Action Sustained by the Government — A Mexican Vessel brought to by a Shot across her Bow — Flying P'alse Colors — A Sur- render — Lady Prisoners of War — The Author's Wife was One of Two — She Describes the Situation^ — Surrender of Monterey — A Wail in the Town — Commodore Jones gives to the People Assurances of Protection to Life and Property — A Pleasant Interview with the Commodore — He Relates the Story of his Proceedings at Monterey- The Great Responsibility he Felt led to his Mistake — Glad there was no Occasion for Hostilities — Favorably Impressed with California — Proud of being the First to Raise the American Flag over the Soil — Felt Assured the Country would Some Day pass into American Possession

CHAPTER XXII. Stay at Monterey — A Musical Treat— A Present of Wine to the Naval Officers — A Consular Entertainment at Monterey — The Enjoyment General — Commodore Jones the Right Man in the Right Place — His Popularity — Leniency Improperly Bestowed — Base Ingratitude — Fast trip of the Frigate *' United States " to Honolulu and Back — A Family Party visits the Ship "Cyane" — An Agreeable Surprise — -Hearty Congratulations — An Enjoyable Feast — Commodore Jones as a Hunter of Small Game — The " Cyane" Leaves for Monterey

CHAPTER XXIII. Commodore Jones and Officers fnake a Visit to Governor Micheltorena at Los Angeles — A Talk about the Capture of Monterey — An Amicable Under- standing arrived at — A Grand Banquet Succeeds— The Officers, by Invita- tion, call on Don Louis Vigne — They Inspect his Cellars, Vineyards, and Sample his Wine — They are Presented with Several Barrels of the Same — Nativity of Don Louis — A Pioneer, and the Most Noted Viticulturist — The First to Raise Oranges in Los Angeles — Devoted to His Business — Extent of his Vineyards Nine Years after — Mis Predictions of California becoming a Wine-producing Country — Don Louis as an Old Man— A Pride to the State, Generous to the Poor, and Liked by Every One — Impossible to Bestow too much Praise on his Memory

CHAPTER XXIV. A Few Names of the Earliest Comers to California — A Homely Husband and Handsome Wife— A Lady with Long and Beautiful Hair- Race Improve- ment by Inter-marriage — Captain Thomas M Robbins and His Cook — J J Warner — He becomes a Prominent Man in the State

CHAPTER XXV. A Revolution — General Castro Joins Alvarado — Troops at their Old Tricks — A Skirmish and a Retreat — Los Angeles taken by Alvarado — A Division of Sentiment — The Leaders of the Separate Columns — The People Opposed to Strife — Alvarado its Moving Cause — Why and Where he found his Allies ■ — Alvarado resorts to Impressment — General Vallejo Non-committal — Micheltorena is joined by General Sutter with Fifty or Sixty Riflemen — The Author Custodian of Alexander Bell's Treasure and Goods — Cannon- ading Heard — A Battle Ensues — Apprehension of the People for the Safety of Relatives — Anguish of the Women — A Long but Bloodless Battle — Micheltorena Capitulates and Agrees to Leave the Country

CHAPTER XXVI. After the Battle — Intermingling of the Hostile Parties — The Author has another Interview with Captain Sutter — A Talk over Old Times — James McKinlay becomes a Mediator between the Hostile Leaders — Condition of the Settlement — General Vallejo Supplanted as Commander-in-Chief by General Castro — Generous Forbearance of General Micheltorena — Reason why the Conflict was Bloodless — Don Pio Pico becomes Provisional Governor of the Department — The "Don Quixote" Chartered as a Transport — Michel- torena and Troops Depart upon Her — The Author on Board as Supercargo — Micheltorena Talks about the Battle — Plis Appearance as a Soldier — His Accomplishments — Reflections on what has been Related — Alvarado as an Intriguer — The Voyage to San Bias — Micheltorena Wishes to Amend Paty's Fortunes — The Governor's First Arrival in the Department — Diversions Coming North from San Diego

CHAPTER XXVIL. Native Californians and Indians seldom Intermarried — The Padres at the Missions had a Care over Unfortunate Children — Settling Book Accounts at Santa Anita — A Singular Vow — Fine Looking Native Californians — An Eccentric Octogenarian — He is the Head of a Numerous Family — Continued Enumeration of Noted Caliiornians— A Skilled Markswoman — Limantour appears on the Scene — ^His Vessel goes Ashore near Point Reyes — His Silks find Ready Sale— A Cargo of Cattle Shipped to Marquesas and Society Islands^ for Breeding Purposes — A Drunken Brawl — The old Mission of San Luis Rey and its Priests — Penance Performed in Food-mixing^ — ^A Sententious and Devout Octogenarian

CHAPTER XXVIII. William Sturgis Hinckley Arrives in 1838 — He and Governor Alvarado become Good Friends — A Good Joke— Plinckley goes to Callao — ^He Returns as the owner of the Brig " Corsair" — He becomes a Permanent Resident, and Marries — Is Elected Alcalde of San Francisco District — Makes a Capable and Popular Officer — He Constructs a Much-needed Bridge — A Survey of xiii Verba Buena is Ordered and Streets laid out — Dies in June, 1846 — Fran- cisco Guerrero becomes an Alcalde — Is afterwards Appointed Sub- Prefect— His Good Nature to Spear and the Author while under Arrest — His Efficiency and Impartiality as an Officer — He Secures a Land Grant at Half Moon Bay — Is one of the Real Founders of San Francisco — His Murder and the Reason for it

CHAPTER XXIX. A Record of Vessel Arrivals at Verba Buena and Monterey — Method of Collecting Cargoes — How Hides were Cured and Loaded Aboard — Whalers come into Port for Water and other Supplies — The sort of Vegetables to be Planted for the Whalers — ^Reception given to Deserters from on Shipboard — Farmers Anticipate the Arrival of the Whaleships — Local Trade with them — Ingenious Manner of Concealing Goods from Custom House Inspection — Politics Excitedly Discussed — Captain Eliab Grimes Relates an Experience — An Expression of Vankee Pluck — The Captain Secures a Land Grant — His Death

CHAPTER XXX. The First Discovery of Gold — Where and by Whom Discovered — It serves as Currency — Large Amounts of the Metal in Circulation — Promoting the Immi- gration of Women to Equalize the Sexes — Inducement for Voung Men to Marry Early — The Draft of Voung Men for the Army Relentless — An Anecdote of the Draft — A Flight to Avoid it — The Draft Deemed Needless — Salmon Catching — The Occupation made Profitable— TNathan Spear the Originator of Salmon Fishing for Commerce — Parrott's 111 Luck — His Vessel Wrecked — No Lives Lost — Part of the Cargo Saved — The Benefit of Packing Goods Securely — Looting Goods — Captain J B R Cooper's Share in the Spoils

CHAPTER XXXI. Gold known to Exist in the Sacramento Valley long before the Discovery at Sutter's Mill — Indians brought it into the Missions — They told the Padres Where it was Found — A Couple of Priests — They Diff'er in Character — Are Both Friendly to the Author — Father Mercado Understood Good Living — Both Priests speak Concerning the Existence of Gold — They could not be Convinced that it would be Proper to Publish the Secret to the World — An Old and Faithful Aboriginee gives Information of an Intended Indian Outbreak — The Report Doubted — It is Confirmed by a Sudden and Unex- pected Attack — Three -Men Killed — Indians Break into the House — The Mistress saved by the Interposition of the Old Indian Woman — She is Dis- robed and Turned Loose — The Daughters taken into Captivity — The Mother's Brutal Treatment — Her Little Son Spreads News of the Savage Performances — Further Fiendish Acts Threatened — The General Conster- nation

CHAPTER XXXII. How the Freaks of an Inebriated Man Frightened the Indians Off — The Indians Pursued — An Indian Spy is Captured — Tells of the Fright Occasioned to the Indians, and is Shot — An Attempt to Recapture the Daughters Fails — The Brothers Wounded and compelled to Retreat — The Girls Never Re- covered — Further Indian Exploits — The Savages are Chastised — Residents at San Diego in 1838 — Miss Alvarado — Her Knowledge of the Indian Language Enables Her to Detect a Fiendish Plot — The Indian Plan for a Massacre — A Company Organized for Defense — The Conspirators Lassoed and Secured — They Confess their Guilt and are Shot — A Cannon Bor- rowed by the Californians for Defense — Another Confession by a Spy, after Mutilation — His Subsequent Fate — The Indians are Surprised — A Battle in which they are Defeated — An Indian Night Attack upon the Residence of Don Santiaguito Arguello — It is Unsuccessful — Indian Depredations — James Berry gets a Land Grant, and Stocks it — A Bay and Shore Celebra- tion of the Fourth of July

CHAPTER XXXIII. A Cargo of Panocha brought by Captain Dare in the Ship *' Dreadnaught " — John Perry Tells Interesting Stories of Central America — Precautions against Smuggling — Spear Influences Perry for a Motive — Privileges Granted to Merchants by Governor jMvarado — Perry Dies at Realejo — Pisco and other Goods Arrive from Peru^Hinckley Talks too Much and is Arrested— Nothing is Proved against Him, and He is Discharged — The First Grist Mill at Yerba Buena — The Manner of Operating it — The Second Mill at San Jose — Native Mode of Grinding Flour — Something about the Yerba Buena Miller — Captain Miguelon — His Characteristics and Cargo — An Offer Declined — Dangerous Passage of a Swollen Stream — A Thrilling In- cident of the Crossing — Stetson in Peril — He has a Narrow Escape — More High Water — Detention of a Bridal Party in Consequence — The First Steamer on the Bay — Something about "Jim Crow Smith," an Eccentric Character — His Dexterity as a Pistol Shot — He makes a Savage Misuse of the Weapon — Dies by Suicide

CHAPTER XXXIV. Remembrances of Dofia Encarnacion Altamirano — The Discovery of Blossom Rock — An East Indian Trader Strikes on the Rock — Gets off without Material Injury— Respect of Native California Children for their Parents — The Cigarito Smoking Habit — Cases in Point — Wine Drinking Permitted— Filial Affection — Further Concerning Native California Habits — Relating to Courtship and Marriage — The Division of Horses into caponcras, on Account of Color — Incidents connected with a Bridal Party — The Dull Season — Camping on Goat Island — How the Islana Derived the Name — The Author's Losing Speculation— Old Jack Fuller as Cook and Story Teller

CHAPTER XXXV. Camping at the Ocean beach — Strawberry Patches — Don Francisco Guerrero gives a Grand " Blow-out" — Howard Amuses an Audience — His Talent as an Amateur Actor — Strawberry Campings Popular — Paty becomes Prominent in Business Transactions — He establishes a Line of Packets between San Francisco and Honolulu —His Hundredth Voyage between San Francisco and Honolulu Celebrated — Theodore Cordua Arrives — Becomes a Mexican Citizen and obtains a Grant of Land — He is a Genial Companion — Wm C FJugge's Movements — Change in Character of the Native Californians — Reasons Therefor — Litigation Involved by Change of Government — The Natives Fleeced by Sharpers — Demoralizing Effect of their Outrageous Treatment — An Interview with Widow Paty — A Coincidence of Names — More of Captain and Mrs Paty — The Husband had been Christened *' Commodore" by the Hawaiian King — Discriminating between Debtors — A Generous-hearted Creditor — The Hunters and Trappers Reliable Men — Wilkes and Paty — The Incident of a Dancing Party

CHAPTER XXX. A Self-assertive Woman, but Good and Honest — The Carnival Season — The Amusement of Breaking Egg-shells over the Head — Entertainments of the Carnival Season — Observance of the Holy Days — An Evening on Board the "Alert," with Captain Wm D Phelps — The Latter gives an Account of his Journey to Jerusalem — His High Appreciation of the Visit — Captain Phelps as a Hunter — He often Writes East in Praise of California — He also becomes a Favorite with Commodore Wilkes — Boston the First to Learn of the Country's Vast Resources

CHAPTER XXXVII. Observing Christmas Eve by Turkey Shooting — The Rash and Dangerous Folly of Captain Phelps — The Author's Father Arrives on the Coast — Some time after, His Mother also — The Former trades between Honolulu and China — He opens a Lively Trade on this Coast at Refugio — The Padres chief among the Traders — Otter Hunting — The Russians Manifest a Disposition to en- croach upon the Rights of the Padres — The Vessel Visited by a Military Official in full dress — The Goods of the Vessel bring in a Golden Harvest — How Captain Meek's Herds Increased from the Gift of Four Cattle — His Manner of Improving the Herds — Great Age Changes a Horse's Color — Captain Meek makes a Quick Trip with the "Don Quixote" from Callao, Peru, to Honolulu— The Ship Noted as a Fast Sailer

CHAPTER XXXVIII. The Missions Well-Stored — The Padres good at Bartering — Reciprocity of Interests between the Missions — A Community of Property — A Word of Praise for the Padres — Best Otter Hunters from the Southern States — Names of Some of the Early Hunters and Trappers — A Trade in Otter Skins — The Method of their Preservation — Constant Hunting Diminished the Otter Skin Supply — The Christian Name used as a Designation — A Sketch of a Surgeon xvi Pao — He Visits and Explores the Hawaiian Islands — His Sudden Disappearance — His Body Found in a Cattle-pit — Purity of Character in Native California Women — Punishment for a Stain on it — Indian Mode of Bear-hunting — A Well-preserved California Lady — Her Plan and Offer of Aid to President- elect Juarez is Cratefully Appreciated — The Lady's Ihisband proves Valorous in Battle

CHAPTER XXXIX. Concerning Wm I) M Howard, an Early Comer to the State, who After- wards made his Mark — Displays his Superior Business Qualifications — Becomes a Trader Up and Down the Coast — Is a Humorist — Fond of His Joke — En- gages in Business with Melius — The American Flag Hoisted on Portsmouth Square — It is Run Up at Other Places, but Compelled to be Taken Down — The Author and Howard Overhauled —Taken to the Guard House — Hospit- ably Entertained as Prisoners —Howard as a Mimic — Full of Innocent Mis- chief — The Merry Gift of Commodore Biddle — Howard as a Generous Host — Remarkable Results of Drinking water from the Polin Spring — Mrs Howard Dies at Honolulu — Howard Marries a Second Time — A Child by this Marriage still Survives — The Firm of Melius, Howard & Co — It does an Immense Business — Sam Brannan Manages a Branch of the Establishment at Sutter's Fort

CHAPTER XL. Foresight of Quartermaster Folsom — He Slips Off to the West India Islands and Purchases from the Heirs the Entire Leidesdorff Estate in California — The Author Becomes a Local Officer of San Francisco — Howard Forms a Military Company — An Incident of Recognition — Disputing a Man's Identity — How- ard Crippled Financially by the Great Fire of 1 85 1 — The Increase in Real Estate Values Restores Him to Wealth — A Spiteful Law-suit Instituted by Melius Against Howard — It is Soon Abandoned for Good Cause — Howard a Generous Contributor to Charity — He and Melius Present the City a Fire Engine — A Fire Company Organized with Howard as Foreman — Howard Dies in 1855 — Tokens of Respect to His Memory

CHAPTER. XLI Some Political History — The First Wharf — Privileges Granted to it — A vast Fleet of Trading Vessels in the Bay — A Splendid Spectacle — The Business Bustle on Shore — The Scene as a Panorama — A Patriarchal mode of Governing the Mission Indians — Their Cleanliness under Discipline — Yoscolo, an Educated Indian, proves Treacherous — Outbreak of the Savages — Yoscolo their Leader — They Break into the Mission Convent, and carry ofif 200 Indian Girls — Yoscolo joins Stanislaus, another Educated Chief, in the Mariposa Mountains — Their United Forces Formidable — The Indians break into, and Plunder the Mission of Santa Clara — The Savages retire to the Santa Cruz Mountains — Prado Mesa musters a Hundred Men to March against Them — A Battle Ensues — Mesa gains a Victory— Yoscolo is Taken and Beheaded on the Spot — The Killed and Wounded — Yoscolo's Head displayed as a Trophy

CHAPTER XLII. Chief Stanislaus is Pursued and Overtaken by Castro — An Outbreak of the Indians at Clear Lake — They are Slaughtered without Mercy — Arrow Poison- ing — The Methods of Counteracting its Effect — The Trouble of Land Squat- ters — A Timely and Skillful use of the Reata, and a Fortunate Rescue — Dangers and Benefits of the Reata — Two Illustrative Incidents — A Wealthy Land, Horse and Cattle Owner — Members of his Family Designated — A Close Dealer — Pompous on First Acquaintance, but Easily Softened — Exhibits his Moneyed Treasures to the Author — The Owner tells how he Acquired Them — Does a Bartering Business on his own Account — The Wealthy Man makes Further Purchases from the Author — Robbed by his Sons — His Character as a Money Broker — The sort of Security he Required on Loans— Time and Manner of Herding and Transferring Cattle

CHAPTER XLIII. Several Arrivals from Boston by Sea — A Party on Shipboard — Sad Fate of Captain Vincent — Thomas B Park comes out to San Francisco — Dies Soon After — Active Competition in the Vessel Trade of the Port — First Arrival of Melius — Robinson's Dislikes — Melius goes East and Returns — His Precision and Caution as a Business Man — Melius gets Married — Sells out his Business — Goes East again — Returns and Locates at Los Angeles — A Constructive Insult Offered his Wife at a Dancing Party, by an Officer of the Army named Bonnycastle — Melius Challenges Bonnycastle — A Friend offers Flimself as a Substitute to Fight for Melius — The Duel Comes Off— Bonnycastle Shot in the Hand — Melius Fails in Health — Changes in the Melius Business Firm

CHAPTER XLIV. Sharp Practice in Trade — The Rancheros' Favoritism between Bidders — Drying Hides Extempore — Expedients adopted by a Ranchero to Fill an Order — Business Rivalry no Cause for Ill-feeling — Frank and George Melius come to California — The Former Marries Plere — A Lady's Sarcastic Response — List of Vessels sent out to Melius — Don Jose Antonio Aguirre as a Trader on the Coast — Other Incidents in his History — He gets an Insight into the Animus of Professional Quarrels among American Lawyers, and other American Customs — He Opposes the Annexation of Cuba in Vigorous Language

CHAPTER XLV. A New Arrival on the Scene, in the Person of Miguel de Pedrorena — Some- thing Concerning Him — He Assists in getting Horses for Stockton's Command — Displays Bravery in Battle — Ingenious Device of Gale and Robinson to Dis- pose of a Cargo of Merchandise — Indians as Boat-Builders, Boatmen and Otter Hunters — A Vessel Seized — Her Cargo Confiscated — A Knock-down on Board — Thompson, the Supercargo, Borne off and Imprisoned — The Cargo Released and Thompson Set Free — Suicide of Henry Paty at Sea — Everett Arrives Again on the Bark " Tasso " — An Exceptionally Disagreeable Man

CHAPTER XLVI. Young Pacheco and his Studies — His Wealthy Family meets with Misfortune in the Loss of Live Stock, in the Drouth of 1864— Statement of the Export Trade in Hides and Tallow — Estimate of Tallow Exportation — Signaling from Shore for Vessels in the Harbor to come for Fresh Beef — Places for Slaughtering Cattle — A Ludicrous Gastronomic Contest — Vioget afterwards Employed by the Author as Captain of the " Euphemia."

CHAPTER XLVII. An Attempted Partnership Fails — E & H Grimes and the Author Purchase the "Euphemia " — She is put into the Honolulu Trade — A Visit to Gen Castro — Business Shrewdness — A Gift that is appreciated — The Author Auspiciously Inaugurated as a Merchant — Ingratiates himself by Firing a Salute from the Vessel — Guests present at a Party on Shipboard — A Customs Officer afraid of Scorpions — The Custom House used as a Salesroom — Transactions of Mutual Accommodation between Merchants, the Customs Officers and Mexican Government — The Pleasant Surprise of Captain Grimes

CHAPTER XLVIII. The American Flag Hoisted at Monterey — The English Government Cir- cumvented — A Welcome to "American Soil " — Incidents preceding the Flag- hoisting — Admiral vSeymour Outwitted — Sloat's Hesitancy — Urged by Mervine to Act without Delay — Commodore Stockton arrives in the " Congress," to Relieve Commodore Sloat — The "Congress" Anchors in San Francisco Harbor — The Author and Mervine Cultivate an Acquaintance — A Favorable Impression of Commodore Stockton — A Grand Reception Tendered him on Shore — The Commodore shown around by a Mounted Escort — The Influential Native Californians Accept the Situation Gracefully — Revolt of the "Baser Sort," in the Southern Portion of the State — Captain Mervine of the "Savan- nah," then at Monterey, is sent under Orders to Suppress it — A Battle Ensues — Captain Mervine's Forces driven back to their Vessels

CHAPTER XLIX. Commodore Stockton's Fleet — Fremont Joins the Commodore with his Troops — A Commendation of Captain Montgomery — His Successor a Different Sort of Man — Melancholy Fate of Captain Montgomery's Two Sons — The " Euphemia " Arrives from Honolulu with a Large and Varied Cargo of Goods — Rum in Demand — A Fitting Out Suitable for Army and Navy Uses — Lar- kin Made Prisoner — Mrs Larkin Despondent in Consequence — Bartlett and Pickett Arrested — Still a Demand for Rum and Other Liquors — A Christmas Dinner Eaten in Bunks — Money Plenty — A Man of Self Impor- tance — An Anecdote Concerning Him — Fremont's Battalion Marches South — Why the Author was Sent for by Fremont — The General is in Want of Sup- plies — They are Furnished by the Author

CHAPTER L. Stockton Becomes Impatient ^t Fremont's Delay — Forms a Military Camp at Old San Diego — The Military Musicians Entertain the California Ladies at Dances — The Sailors and Marines are Drilled for Battle — General Kearney Arrives near San Diego — Sufferings of Kearney's Men — Kearney's Pluck — It Proves to be Ill-Advised — He is Attacked by the Californians and Worsted — Accomplishments of Don Andres Pico as a Military Officer — A Hazardous Mission Successfully Accomplished by Lieutenant Beale — Stockton Sends Rein- forcements to Kearney, who is brought in, with his Wounded, to San Diego — Stockton Prepares for a Battle — A Conflict of Authority — March of the Col- umn — The Californians Encountered in Force — Attacks and Repulses of the Enemy — The Killed and Wounded — Account of the Battle

CHAPTER LI. Retreat of the Californians — They are Intercepted by and Capitulate to Fremont — The Conquerors march into Los Angeles to the Music of the " Star Spangled Banner" — Dispersion of the California Troops — Fremont appointed Governor of California — He Arrives at Los Angeles — Exchange of Courtesies on Vessels at Sea — The Author takes Advantage of the Situation by Prosecut- ing Trade — American Soldiers unused to the Spear Thrust — Good Angels to the Wounded Soldiers — A Young Man who Wounded Kearney Extolled for his Bravery — The First California Sugar-cane — A Generous Tender of Riding Animals Accepted — The Tender Repeated by the Accomplished Widow of Don Tomas Yorba — The Lady's Foresight in Preparing a Way with Horses for Crossing a Swollen Stream — The Author makes a Purchase of Wine from the Fair Widow — The Author calls at Fremont's Headquarters for a Settle- ment of his Claim — A Delay Asked for and Granted — Again put off — The Great Man cannot be Seen ; but at last Condescends to Transact the Author's Business — The Papers he Signed are Transferred — Stockton a Different Sort of a Man — His Promptitude in Securing the Payment of Creditors' Claims against the Government — His Ripe Judgment as a Military Commander

CHAPTER LII. A Harsh Sentence Relented — A Mark of Credit to Fremont — A Reflection by Native Californians upon the Mexicans and Mexican Government — The Author Continues Trade by Vessel — The Passengers on Board — Head-Winds and a Slow Voyage induce Owner and Passengers to make a Land Journey to their Point of Destination — Their Vessel beats them to Monterey — A Profit- able Trade Venture — The Author Sails for Honolulu — Money on Board for Grimes — None for Consul Abell — The Money for Grimes just in Time — Honolulu gets the Benefit of a Large Marine Commerce from the Pacific Coast

CHAPTER LIII. Celebrating the Centennial of the Foundation of the Mission Dolores and of the City of San Francisco — Rev Father Junipero Serra, President of the F-anciscan Missionaries, in Charge of the Missions in California — The Port XX San Francisco Discovered, A D 1769— The Mission Founded October 8, 1776 ; the Presidio Three Weeks Before — The Country Never before Inhab- ited by Civilized Man— Indians Buried in the Darkness of Paganism — The Code of Recopilacion de Leges de Indias established by the Spanish Sovereigns to Protect the Rights of Indians — If in Rebellion, the Indians to be Reduced with Mildness and Peace, Without War, Theft or Deaths — A Detailed Nar- ration of the Primitive History of the Presidio, Mission and Pueblo of San Francisco

CHAPTER LIV. First Experience of a Novice at Tea Drinking — Goods for the Missionaries on the Hawaiian Islands — Trade between the Islands and China— Loss of the Brig " Grififin" — A Maritime Race from Santa Barbara to Monterey — Wines Shipped to California in Small Quantities to Improve in Flavor by the Sea ^ oy^gc — Mrs Paty presented with a Cask of Wine by Don Louis Vigne — She Ships it to Honolulu with the Same Object — How the Bulk of the Wine was Diminished without the Knowledge of its Owner

CHAPTER LV. l>ieutenant Bartlett of the " Portsmouth " appointed First- Alcalde at Verba Buena — George Flyde appointed Second-Alcalde — He resigns the Alcaldeship after a Two Days' Service, and is appointed First- Alcalde by Captain Hull — Resigns a Second Time- — Bartlett the first Elected Alcalde — He beats Bob Ridley for the Office, l>adly — Bartlett is ordered on Board his Vessel, and Hyde again becomes Alcalde — The name of Verba Buena changed to San Francisco by Governor Kearney — Petty Charges in regard to a Land Grant and Alleged Changes in Map and Survey of Lots — Don Jose Ramon Carillo Encounters a Bear in the Woods^ — A Fight Ensues — Carillo Slays his Antagonist — Don Jose Ramon has Further Experience with a Bear — Don Jose Ramon Carillo Waylaid and Shot Dead by an Unknown Assassin — Dona Encarnacion Peralta Witnesses the Capture of a Bear

CHAPTER LVI. A Voyage projected by the Author to Callao, Peru, with a Valuable Cargo — How it was Frustrated — Supercargo Sherman makes a Judicious Investment in Goods at Honolulu, and Returns with them in the " Nick of Time" — The " Euphemia " Sold to the City of San Francisco — The Vessel was Noted for Profitable Ventures and Good Luck — Major Reading, the Author and Others Embark in a Flour Speculation to Oregon — The Vessel Employed Reaches her Point of Destination ; Secures a Cargo, but is Frozen in on the Columbia River— The Brooklyn Arrives from New Vork in 1846, with 23c Passengers — Sam Brannan was on Board, at the Head of an Organized Mili- tary Company — It was their Intention to Floist the American Flag, but they were a Little too Late — Many of the New Comers were Mechanics, and the Hum of Industry was Soon Heard — Mr Brannan Extolled as Laying the Corner- stone of San Francisco's Future Prosperity — Vessels Arrive by the Dozen from all Parts of the World — The Author Purchases a Sample of Scale Gold Dust from a Couple of Miners — Its Purity Doubted — It Stands the Acid Test — Gold Weighing Scales in Demand — Arrival of the First Gold-Seekers — A Broadside Salute from the Pacific Squadron then in Port — Alfred Robinson, First Agent of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company — He Still Survives Beyond the Age of Four Score Years — A Night Alarm — Safety Sought by Frightened Women — Ruffianly Work of the " Hounds " — Mr Brannan Takes the Lead in a Movement Against the Desperadoes — Patrols Organized and Parade the Streets for Weeks — The "Hounds" when Identified, were Arrested, Ironed and Placed on Board the Ship " Warren" to Await Trial — Hall McAllister Appeared Against Them — A Tribute to McAllister — Mr Maynard Makes a Survey which Demonstrates the Possibility of Navigating the Sacramento River with a Vessel of 600 or 800 Tons Burden — He Goes East and Forms a Syndicate which Purchases the "Senator" — When the Vessel Arrives in the Bay Mr Brannan as Spokesman of a Partnership of Four, Offered $250,000 in Gold Dust for the "Senator," Which was Rejected — The Vessel not for Sale — The "Senator" Leaves a Memorable Record

CHAPTER LVII. First Brick Building Erected in San Francisco by the Author — Heavy Rains Stop the Work for a Season — Teaming Difficult — The Embryo City a Lake of Mud — How Pedestrians Managed to get About — Commodore Jones Wants to Remove the Brick Building, and Transport the Material of which it was Com- posed to Benicia — The Commodore Fails to Make an Impression on the Author's Mind that Benicia was to be the Future Metropolitan City of the Bay — The Commodore's Offer Declined — Other Tempting Propositions Rejected — The Building Subsequently Leased to the Government as a Custom House — Serior Jose Antonio Aguirre, the Author and Others Embark in Another Business Enterprise —The Ship Rhone Chartered and Dispatched to China for Goods — Why the Speculation Proved a Failure — Flour from Chile — The Author, with a Party, Goes on a Gold- Hunting Expedition to Lower California — Precaution in Tent-Pitching against Rattlesnakes — Don Ramon fond of Rattlesnakes as Food — An Ancient Olive Orchard — The Party Joined by Don Manuel Castro and Five Soldiers, an Indian Guide and Interpreter — The Expe- dition Arrives at Trinidad — The Interpreter Dispatched for Zapaje, an Old Indian Chief, who knew Where the Gold was to be Found — The Chief Comes into Camp with a Party of His Own — Generous Offers Made to the Old Chief it he will Reveal where the Gold Exists — He declined Them — His Reason for so Doing — The Chief obdurate to the End — The Expedition Consequently a Failure — A Band of large fine Cattle purchased by the Author from Seiior Emigdio Bejar in Lower California — The Cattle Arrive at San Leandro in August 1852

CHAPTER LVHI. Senora Dona Juana Estudillo's Portion of the Pinole Rancho— A Tract of Seven Thousand Acres — It is named "San Joaquin " by the Author — Four Thousand Head of Cattle grazing on the "San Joaquin" in 1853— The " Cybell," with a Cargo of three hundred thousand feet of Pine Lumber, forty thousand Bricks, and Frames for eight or ten Houses, arrives from Portland, Maine, in the Summer of 1850— The Author Purchases the Cargo for $10,000 —Building Material a Glut in the San Francisco Market— A Picturesque Spot xxii for a Town on the Encinal de Temascal, the present site of the City of Oakland — The Author's Plans for the Laying Out of the Town — Negotiations with the Owner of the Rancho for Purchase of the Premises in the Fall of 1846 — Don Vicente Peralta Refuses to Sell the Property — The Owner Disposes of the Land in 1850 to Col Jack Mays, Caperton and others — The Rancho San Leandro — A History of Squatter Troubles — Litigation Lasting for Years — The Squatters finally Beaten — They Take Leases from the Estudillo Family — The County Seat of Alameda County Removed in 1854 from Alvarado to San Leandro — Mrs Estudillo and her Children Deed the County Land for Public Buildings — The town of San Leandro Laid Out, and a Fine Hotel Built, called the " The Estudillo."

CHAPTER LIX. Ports in the Department where Hides were conveyed through the Surf to Vessels — An instance of Feminine Self-assertion, manifested by a patriotic Mexican Lady — An Interview with a Reporter of the San Diego Sun — The Author imparts Information of Occurrences at the Port of San Diego in 1831 — The First Building and an Extensive Wharf erected at New San Diego by the Author in 1850 — Military Necessity — The Wharf converted into Fire-wood by the Soldiers of the United States Army in the Rainy Winter of 1861-62 — The Congress Appealed to for Compensation — The Senate Passes the Bill — Why no Adequate Relief was ever Granted — General Nathan Lyon gives a Dance and Entertainment at Military Headquarters in San Diego — An Enjoy- able Reunion — Fair Women and Brave Men — Correspondence relating to the Administration of First-Alcalde Hyde, of the District of San Francisco — Names of Residents at the Presidio of San Francisco, at the Mission and in Verba Buena, on the date of Conquest July 8, 1846

CHAPTER LX. First Chinaman in California — Second Arrival of Chinese — Observations by Mr McDermett — Observations by Mr Leeds — Chinese Encroachment — Chinese Immorality — Colonel Jonathan D Stevenson's Regiment of one thousand New York Volunteer Soldiers, a portion of the United States Army of Occupation, Arrives at San Francisco in the month of March, 1847 — Roster of the commissioned and non-commissioned Officers of the Regiment

CHAPTER LXI. Colonel Stevenson's Arrival at San Francisco — Distribution of Troops — Mormon Soldiers — Tranquility of California — ^Good Work of Commodore Stockton — Arrival of Transports — Colonel Stevenson much Esteemed and Popular — Death of his Son, Captain Stevenson — Author's Visit to Mount Vernon — Patriotic Women of the United States — Isaac Williams — Homes of the Hacendados

CHAPTER LXII. Missions and their Wealth — Flacendados and their Property — Downfall of the Missions — Cattle, Horses and Sheep in the Department of California

CHAPTER LXIII. James Alexander Forbes — Record of Arrivals from 1774 to 1847 — Estimate of Exports of Hides and Tallow — Conclusion